Akkeshi Foundations 1 Bourbon Barrel Matured 5-14 Months 60%abv

P1050394Nose: Strongly fruity on green apples, fresh pear, lemon juice. Hints of steamed greens and the almost inevitable acetone note of youth(though not overpowering). White pepper which becomes quite intense once this opens up over time in the glass.
Palate: Respectably smooth on the palate for a new make spirit of 60% though warming on the way down. Fairly simple/straight forward at this stage. The green apples are there but the malt begins to assert itself. The steamed greens, a little vanilla, toffee and some chili flakes spice. Water doesn’t change the equation to much though ups the chili flake spice.
Finish: Green apples, pears and white pepper. After about 5 minutes a little soapiness.
Last Word: Definitely shows potential. Due the cooler overall climate where the distillery is situated, I would expect an Akkeshi whisky to mature maybe a year slower than say an equivalent aged Chichibu. I say this as I tasted the new makes from Chichibu and they were surprisingly well developed at a similar age.

Rating: 75/100

Miyagikyo Spanish Sherry Casks Limited Edition No Age Statement 48%abv

850_8042Nose: Not a huge sherry bomb nose. Blood oranges, dried fruits, leather, dusty old bar, cherry cream, raspberries, incense, some flintiness.
Palate: Pineapples, mango, papaya(paw paw), cherry cream filled chocolate, fried banana, flames from a gas BBQ, nutmeg, blood oranges, nougat. Creamy mouth feel. If you have tasted the Miyagikyo Sherry & Sweet this is quite different.
Finish: Dried mango and papaya, raspberries, nutmeg, nouget, some palate drying oak.
Last Word: An intriguing sherry cask matured with a strong tropical fruit influence. Not a heavy hitter on nose or palate but elegant and harmonious.

Rating: 89/100

White Oak Akashi Old Sherry Butt #5184 Aged 8 Years 50%abv

P1050327Nose: Lightly sherried, oak, orange peel, cantaloupe, cashew nuts.
Palate: Again the light sherry, butter, honey(not uncommon in Akashi White Oak whiskies), scones, butterscotch, gingerbread.
Finish: Light sherry, butterscotch, cashews, mixed citrus peel.
Last Word: I prefer a heavier style of sherry cask matured whisky but if your in the mood for something lighter this one is pretty decent.

Rating: 82/00

White Oak Akashi Bourbon Barrel #1241 No Age Statement 50%abv

P1050325Nose: Very light on fresh cut timber, pears, lychee’s and a wildflower note.
Palate: Honey, pear jubes, vanilla, fresh cut timber, a little wood spice, some oiliness to the body.
Nose: Honey, vanilla, fresh cut timber.
Last Word: As can be seen from the tasting notes, a very simple whisky.
Rating: 76/100

Miyagikyo Original Whisky Genshu No Age Statement 40% Batch 18E06A

P1050385Nose: Oranges, apricots, bran, coffee bean, lime water, toffee.
Palate: Definitely on the light side due to the combination of low abv and style. Orange and poppy seed cake, almond flakes, coconut, lemon and barley.
Finish: Orange and poppy seed cake, almond flakes, bran and some late white pepper.
Last word: Nothing funky/off about it but a little to light for my tastes.

Rating: 79/100

Yoichi Genshu Single Cask #412200 15YO 58%abv

Yoichi 15 # 412200 58%abvNose: Dark cherries, raspberry dark chocolate, an old bar, cloves, old leather, charred oak barrels.
Palate: Baking spices, raisin toast, cherry chocolate, Turkish delight, cocoa, fruit tingles, menthol, ginger ale, salt.
Finish: Cocoa, menthol, salt, old whisky barrels, ginger, raspberry dark chocolate, Turkish delight and a hint of struck match.
Last Word: I always have high hopes for these sherry cask matured Yoichi Single Malts and this one doesn’t disappoint. Just a shame so few people will ever get to try one.

Rating: 90/100

Mars Le Papillon American White Oak Cask #1860 2014-2017 60%abv

P1050384Nose: Banana bread, toffee, vanilla, pine nettles, furniture polish.
Palate: Tangy orange, lemon sherbet, salt and pepper, nutmeg, vanilla cake, light rum, pickled pears, peat to Mars lightly peated level of 3.5ppm.
Finish: Banana bread, vanilla cake, light young rum, light peat, menthol and lingering pepper.
Last Word: Another fine young AMO cask from Mars and getting better as the bottle level goes down.

Rating: 86/100

Update 25/6/2018: This one is evolving nicely after about 25% of the bottle consumed becoming richer and more complex while loosing some of the rougher edges. At this stage I’d add an extra point to the rating.

Japanese Whisky in 2018 – The Sad State of Affairs

A title such as the one for this post could at first glance look like click bait. Bit dramatic isn’t it!
I’m going to tell you a story that is only a decade old and one that I believe backs up the title.
Firstly, what has prompted the post? It is the current online Japanese Whisky news doing the rounds about Suntory discontinuing both Hakushu 12 Year Old Single Malt and The Hibiki 17 Year Old Blend in the second half of this year. Some may have even read that here at the Japanese Whisky Review as we have a number of fantastic reader/contributors adding comments in the annual Buying Whisky in Japan post. One of our contributors posted on the rumor(now true) at the beginning of the month. You may wish to follow that post moving forward as these contributors really have their finger on the pulse.
Now lets go back to where it all started, at least for me, almost a decade ago on my journey into the world of Japanese whisky. Actually, most of what I am about to write about what Japanese Whisky was available to many folks is good up until about 5-6 years ago. Maybe you didn’t have some of these bottling’s in your home country but they were readily available on line from retailers in the UK and Europe who ship worldwide.
I don’t want to dwell too much on closed distilleries such as Hanyu or Karuizawa. For most whisky drinkers you may as well be talking about the Unicorn, myths and legends that they will never see, only read about.

The Big Two Japanese whisky producers are Suntory and Nikka! Within the time frame mentioned in the last paragraph, this is what you could find easily on the shelves of liquor stores in Japan and many of them from retailers outside of Japan.
Lets start with Suntory and I will be  focusing on age statement bottling’s. Number will represent the age in years and I’ll be adding the approximate price in Yen so you will be able to do the exchange rate into your own currency.
Suntory Royal Blend 12 and 15. Y2,500 and Y4,000.
Suntory Hibiki blends 12, 17 and 17 50.5% and 21. Y6,000, Y10,000 and Y20,000.
Yamazaki Single Malt 10, 12, and 18. Y4,000, Y6000 and Y20,000.
Chita Single Grain 12. Y5,000.

Next up Nikka
Yoichi Single Malt 10, 12, 15 and 20. Y4,000, Y6,000, Y10,000 and Y20,000
Miyagikyo Single Malt 10, 12, and 15. Y4,000, Y6,000 and Y10,000
Taketsuru Pure Malt 12, 17 and 21. Y4,000, Y7,000 and Y10,000.

Also readily available at retail, distillery or online.
Multiple annual vintage or special cask releases. Multiple single cask aged statement whiskies. These are the ones you might see listed on Whiskybase and wonder how the hell people got those bottle’s
Suntory even had an Owner’s Cask program in Japan where you could buy a whole cask of Yamazaki or Hakushu. Yes it was a marketing program to try and sell more whisky when the Japanese Whisky Industry was in the doldrums but again, it was in the time line I have mentioned. Suntory used to advertise the program on it’s website with prices, age, age distilled and cask type. I can tell you that you could buy many a cask for less than a single bottle some Yamazaki or Hakushu might sell today at auction.

So what do we have today that’s widely available removing the soon to be discontinued bottling’s.
Suntory
1 x Hakushu and 1 x Yamzaki single malt no age statement bottling’s.
Yamazaki 12 single malt
Hibiki Harmony and Harmony Masters Select(Airport exclusive) no age statement blends.
Chita Single Grain whisky no age statement.
A few no age statement blends.

Nikka
Nikka From the Barrel no age statement(though this is a personal favorite and generally well regarded in whisky circles).
1 x Miyagikyo and 1 x Yoichi single malt no age statement bottling’s.
Taketsuru Pure Malt no age statement.
Nikka The Blend 12YO.
A few no age statement blends.

You may not feel a hint of depression after reading that but I sure do. We are down to 2 readily available age statement bottling’s from the two biggest players in the Japanese whisky industry.

Now it’s easy to read many articles online as the the reasons why the current state of play. Doesn’t really help much though. Also, I have read where journalists have spoken to a rep from Nikka or Suntory and they are trying to talk up how they are still going to concentrate on the quality of their whisky. No doubt they will but it does not mean the whiskies will be particularly great either. Make up your own minds but from the current list, I only rate a few as stuff I’d wish to have in the whisky cabinet at all times. Can young whiskies be very good, sure can. But why should we pay the same price for  NAS whisky as age statement whisky. It may not even be that one is better than another, but we also know we are paying more for an age statement whisky because the age statement cask has to recoup the time invested by the distillery warehousing the barrels for 10 years or more.

So what about the future say 3 to 8 years?
We have big production ramp ups from both Nikka and Suntory going back a few years but it will be many years before we start seeing any multiple readily available age statement bottling’s from either and then at what price? I also worry that that they will fear being caught with their pants down again and release age statement bottling’s irregularly as special releases and at premium prices.
We have new Japanese Whisky distilleries that will have bottling’s of no younger than 3 years available by the time of the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. The issue here is that like Chichibu, Mars and Akashi they will be small concerns with limited production runs as will be the total amount of liquid distilled. So many whisky fans will never have a chance to buy a bottle, especially age statements or single casks. We all know the price of many a Chichibu at auction!!!
You are certainly not going to be able to nip down to Costco’s and grab a bottle when the mood strikes.

So what do we really need from Suntory and Nikka moving forward?
In the short term if you are going to bottle mainly no age statement whiskies please give it character and complexity, especially the distinct distillery characterisitcs of Yamazaki, Hakushu, Yoichi and Miyagikyo. For the most part for anyone that had the pleasure of enjoying the age statement versions, both Suntory and Nikka have failed.
Make the prices commensurate with having no age on the label. A no age statement bottling should never cost the same as the age statement bottling version did yet they do.
Have the balls to produce enough whisky so that in the future they can consistently stock retail shelves in all the major markets with various age statement bottling’s at fair prices! There, I’ve said it!

Suntory “Imperial” Blended Whisky No Age Statement 43%abv

P1050378Nose: Icing sugar, lemon, mandarin, vanilla, pepper, banana, cream corn.
Palate: Fried banana, mandarin, butter, vanilla, pepper, almonds.
Finish: Mandarin, butter and a little pepper.
Last Word: The most “Imperial” thing about this blended whisky is the lovely decanter style bottle it comes in. Beyond that it is a fairly simple offering.

Rating: 78/100

Ichiro’s Malt Hanyu 8 of Hearts 1991-2008 Oloroso Sherry Butt #9303 56.8%abv

8 of HeartsNose: Cream sherry, raspberries, orange jus, marmalade, pine nettles, burnt popcorn, apricot jam, a little of the Hanyu earthiness.
Palate: There is a richness to the mouth feel and flavors. The cream sherry, Valencia oranges, raisins, peanut butter, rye, menthol, mild chili flakes.
Finish: Shortish on cream sherry, Valencia oranges, menthol, earthy.
Last Word: A more than decent Oloroso sherry butt with no off notes or flavors. Don’t expect to be blown away however for the 4 to 5 grand you will need to buy one.

Rating: 87/100

Last cask of Karuizawa to be bottled in 2020

A question I have often been asked is how many casks of Karuizawa are left. Not an easy question to answer accurately up until now. Eric Huang one of the men behind salvaging the remaining casks of Karuizawa reveals the number and the final release date in a recent article in Forbes online here. I won’t bother quoting or paraphrasing as it’s just better to read the article for accuracy sake. It will also be of curiosity value only to most people including myself who have not been able or willing to buy a bottle of Karuizawa for years due to the exorbitant prices.

Ichiro’s Malt & Grain Limited Edition 48%abv

P1050370Nose: Apple pie, sweet corn, white pepper, honey, vanilla, toffee, sawdust.
Palate: Baking spices, apple danish, salt, sweetened lemons, fresh ginger, white pepper, banana, sawdust, raisins.
Finish: Banana, apple danish, white pepper, sawdust.
Last Word: This is a blend of Chichibu Single Malt Whisky and grain whisky from unknown distilleries outside of Japan. Certainly a step up from the Ichiro’s Malt & Grain White Label but lets compare it to someone Japanese fully homegrown blends. I paid 9000 yen for the Ichiro’s Premium in Japan. At the moment in Japan you can buy Nikka Premium Blend 12YO for around Y5000 and Nikka Whisky From The Barrel Y2500 and IMO both are superior. Suntory Hibiki Harmony Masters Select(travel exclusive)for roughly Y9000 and again I wouldn’t hesitate to say superior the Ichiro’s hybrid blend.

Rating: 82/100

Mars Komagatake Double Cellars 2013-2018 46%abv

P1050364Nose: Honey, treacle, dried pears, apricot jam, Brandy, ginger ale, orange peel, earthy peat, lemon cough drops, charred twigs. Shows a level of maturity that belies the young age.
Palate: Some nice spiciness mostly nutmeg, salt and pepper. Cocoa, vanilla, almond flakes, butter, lemon meringue, earthy peat, coconut water. Adding a little water brings out tangy orange and peanut butter.
Finish: Nutmeg, almond flakes, lingering cashew nuts and with water the peanut butter.
Last Word: A very solid young whisky. I could envisage a few friends polishing off a bottle in a session. I’d call it user friendly. 46%abv seems spot on for this one.

Rating: 86/100 87/100(for the age)

*Did the notes up yesterday but today in a different glass, different time of day and different drink(iced berry & kale smoothie) before hand, this one is coming off as far more medicinal on the palate. Just something else to look out for.

Karuizawa 1991-2007 Sherry Cask 3318 62.5%abv

Karuizawa 1991 3318Nose: Notes of toasted oak, toffee, dry earth, steel, mild wood stain, cloves and dried papaya. Can’t say it’s particularly bold or expressive and the sherry influence is non existent to my nose. Color is orange rather than the dark cherry you will see in many sherry cask matured whiskies. Very mild at 62.5%abv.
Palate: 62.5% certainly reveals itself on the palate. For a moment there’s quite some juicy fruit flavors though more like you would get in fruit candies/lollies. After that hotter elements like chili take over though they also fade fast followed by the earthy flavor, also dried pears and papaya, nutmeg, roasted chestnut and Manuka honey. Adding water actually brings the hotter elements forward in the mix and they also hang on longer so not recommended for my palate.
Finish: Metallic minerals, peanut butter and a charred element. Fades quickly.
Last Word: It’s Ok but certainly would not buy it at current prices. Also, where’s the sherry influence!? Would take a bottle of Nikka WFTB over this any day.

Rating: 81/100

Yamazaki 50 Year Old Sets Record Price for a Japanese Whisky

Yamazaki 50YOIf you missed it a bottle of Yamazaki 50 Year Old Single Malt Whisky sold for a record price at Auction on January 30 for US$299,000. The auction was held by Sotheby’s Hong Kong. The previous record for a single bottle of Japanese whisky was also held by a bottle of Yamazaki 50YO sold at auction in October 2016 for US$129,000. After having followed the whisky auction scene for a while I can safely say it if you want absolute top dollar, Hong Kong is the place to sell. It is certainly bolstered by the burgeoning Asian whisky scene. The problem I found however was that when I approached a certain auction house in HK to sell some of my whisky they did not accept consignments from outside of HK. The whisky had to already be in country. Not sure if this is the same for all the auction houses in HK.

When first released in 2011 the bottle price was around US$9,200 which although it looks like a bargain now, lets face it, this was a bottle for the wealthy from the get go.
There were a couple of bars in Japan back in 2011 where you could try this for Yen 90,000 a shot or about US$850.
For years now a number of people on various whisky forums have speculated about the demise of Japanese Whisky. Just a fad, too overpriced(maybe it is but it hasn’t diminished it’s rise) and for a number of narrow minded people if it isn’t made in Scotland it can’t be whisky or at least not good whisky.
Japanese whisky has proved to be resilient on the pricing front and it’s popularity has gone from strength to strength.
*Note: We may have seen some marginal average price drops on bottling’s from the likes of Hanyu and Karuizawa over the last year but this is normal when the number of different bottling’s have increased. Prices of the most prized bottling’s are still on the up.

Kirin Single Cask 10YO #M814 47%abv

P1050359Nose: Apricots, dried pears, barley, lemon sherbet, vanilla, wood spice, ash.
Palate: Barley, dried pears, smoke, salt, ginger, spearmint, lemons, oregano, oak. Mouth feel it light and crisp. Water brings out almonds and thickens the body a little.
Finish: Minerals, lemon, icing sugar, spearmint, ash.
Last Word: Easy drinking, no off notes, not particularly bold or complex and comes off a little younger that 10 years old.

Rating: 82/100

Miyagikyo Fruity and Rich No Age Statement 55%abv

P1050320Nose: Cantaloupe, honeydew melon, fresh cut timber, pears, white grapes, white peaches, honey. Water brings out a heather note.
Palate: Honey, sweet baking spices, vanilla, pears, lychee, bakers yeast, the cantaloupe and honeydew melon combo and chili powder. The chili powder hits quite hard within a few seconds so prefer this with H2O. Water also adds cashews and a buttery mouth feel.
Finish: Fades quite quickly on some trailing cantaloupe, lychee and menthol.
Last Word: Rich, not so sure, fruity…..definitely!.

Rating 84/100

Buying Japanese Whisky in Japan 2018 Report

In the 2017 there were 428 comments by contributors for the Buying Japanese Whisky in Japan Report thread. A mighty effort especially from a small number of very active posters. My personal thanks to those guys.
In 2017 there were also 22,500 views of this thread so be in no doubt this post and the advice given is greatly valued by readers of TJWR. I should add that there were 12,000 views of the 2016 report during that 2017 as well.
So to our regular contributors and anyone else who wants to jump on board, I look forward to reading about your experiences of buying Japanese Whisky in Japan 2018!

Kampai

Brian AKA Dramtastic

Mars Komagatake Tsunuki Aging 2013 3YO 59%abv

P1050332Nose: This is Heavily Peated Whisky by Japanese standards. If you have tried any of the Chichibu ‘standard’ peated bottling’s, this is peated to at least that level but the Mars peat is much earthier. Dried mushrooms, bay leaves, ripe apricot, honeycomb, oregano, antiseptic, lemon, vanilla. Water ups the vanilla.
Palate: Ok, on the palate this is flat our heavily peated. Ash, antiseptic, lemon cough drops. diesel, earthy peat. Charred oak, salt, marzipan, vanilla. Quite oily as witnessed by the legs that draw down the glass slower than a snail. Cucumber water. More than acceptable without water even at 59%abv. With a little water the marzipan gets louder as does the vanilla and adds some zingy lemon sherbet. A few drops more and we have breath mints and almonds.
Finish: Satisfyingly long, the oiliness continues to coat the mouth. Ash, diesel, antiseptic, lemon, almonds and vanilla.
Last Word: I remember when I bought a couple of different new make Mars peated whiskies a number years back. The quality of the distillation and the balance of the peat spoke of the promise of great things to come. That promise has been fulfilled. Fantastic at 3 years I can only imagine what a 10YO will be like. Highly recommended!

Rating: 89/100

Yoichi Single Cask # 406973 2005 10YO 57%abv

P1050277Nose: A medley of dried fruits made up of apricots, papaya, pears and dates. Quince jam, old leather chairs, pepper, cloves, hint of vanilla, eucalyptus, camphor, charred oak and candied orange slices. Water adds lime water and brandy snaps. Could nose this all day long!
Palate: A bowl of mixed nuts, an earthy element, camphor, menthol, ginger, paprika, the candied orange slices, hoisin sauce. With water we have the quince jam, dates and dried papaya.
Finish: Cloves, pepper, menthol, dried tobacco leaves, salted dark chocolate and cocoa.
Last Word: Another cracking Yoichi 10YO Single Cask Whisky. Can find no reason why this would have needed a single day longer in the barrel!

Rating: 90/100