Yoichi Moscatel Wood Finish No Age Statement 46%abv

P1050433Nose: Dates, ripe apricots, fudge, lemons, deck stain, red apples, pipe tobacco, leather, mushrooms, BBQ sauce.
Palate: Like the Miyagikyo version the Moscatel Wood finish is obvious but not overpowering. Figs, dates, raisins, Valencia oranges, cinnamon, nutmeg, cashews, toffee, white peaches. The fruitiness is a little richer than the Miyagikyo version. Strangely the Miyagikyo is more viscous/oily which is normally a feature of Yoichi Whisky.
Finish: Medium length. Red and green apples, Kiwi Fruit, the same charred oak and cinnamon bark as the Miyagikyo. The Yoichi is more tannic/dryer.
Last Word: There are plenty of similarities between the Yoichi and Miyagikyo Moscatel Wood Finish whiskies but enough differences to warrant having both. Both are well balanced and quite moreish.

Rating: 87/100

Miyagikyo Moscatel Wood Finish No Age Statement 46%abv

P1050430Nose: Red berries, plum juice, wood stain, strawberry jam, grapefruit, wood shavings, raisins, white pepper, some earthiness, dusty oak.
Palate: You notice the Moscatel Wood influence but it’s not overpowering. Red apples, toffee, cranberries, raisins, fermented strawberries, salt, vanilla, cinnamon. Quite viscous and oily.
Finish: Medium length. Balsamic mixed with olive oil, charred oak and cinnamon bark.
Last Word: Approachable and nicely balanced between sweet, bitter and savory elements. The Moscatel Wood finish is very well integrated.

Rating: 87/100

Nomunication – An interview with Dramtastic – The Japanese Whisky Review

Those of you who know the blog Nomunication – Tokyo Bar & Cocktail Guide, may have read this already. For those that haven’t or are not familiar with the site, Richard, the founder and editor, recently posted an interview with myself which may be of interest.
It tracks a course from my introduction to Japanese Whisky until now and is far more in depth than my own about page on The Japanese Whisky Review.
Nomunication is far more than a Tokyo Bar & Cocktail guide, I regard it as the foremost internet site for Japanese Whisky news, facts & figures.

Nikka Taketsuru No Age Statement 2019 43%abv

P1050429Nose: Red Grapes, quince paste, marmalade, sherry, blueberries, vanilla, toffee, balsamic, Bonox(beef stock paste), a little pepper and coal. I’d class it as velvety and satisfyingly rich.
Palate: Cocoa powder, chocolate mouse, coffee beans, sherry, vanilla, Brazil nuts, blueberries, salt, cloves, raisins, oily.
Finish: Sherry, Brazil nuts, cocoa powder, minerals, raisins, coal, cigar leaf.
Last Word: I spent around 30 minutes chatting at the Nikka stand at WhiskyLive last weekend. There were 6 expressions on offer and the general consensus seemed to be this was the pick of the litter. For myself this has either a lot of excellent young malt whiskies in the mix or, and I believe this is more the case, a large chunk of older whiskies in the mix especially from sherry casks. I bought a bottle straight away so that should be enough of an endorsement. A huge improvement over the my last bottle of no age statement Taketsuru, significantly better than the last bottle of Taketsuru 12 I had and in all honesty, if this quality remains I won’t need to lament the discontinuance of the 17 year old.

Rating: 87/100

Hakushu SMWS 120.7 Bota Corta Cask 1999 14YO 55.5%abv

Hakushu SMWS 120.6-2Nose: Baking spices, cafe late, raspberry conserve, Arnott’s savoury shapes biscuits, raisin toast with butter, BBQ sauce, oyster sauce, orange cake.
Palate: Black cherries, raspberry conserve, figs, Cognac, BBQ sauce, oyster sauce(umami), orange & vanilla cake, Kalua.
Finish: Wood tannins, Kalua coffee and choc mint.
Last Word: I usually favor Yamazaki Sherry Cask matured malts over Hakushu Sherry Cask matured. The earthy/foresty house style of Hakushu mostly seems a little at odds with the typical sherry cask such as Oloroso or PX. These Bota Corta Casks however seem to be a match made in heaven for Hakushu whisky.
*Tasted at Bar Te-Airigh Chichibu

Rating: 91/100

Yamazaki SMWS 2003 11YO Bota Corta Cask 118.14 53.9%abv

Yamazaki SMWS Bota Corta Cask 119.14 53.9%abv-2Nose: The darkest cherries, brandy, raspberry coulis, nutmeg, cinnamon, raisins, the ubiquitous Christmas Cake.
Palate: Blood oranges, raspberries, nutmeg, cocoa, Christmas Cake, Guinness Stout, tea tannin’s, sweet tobacco, peanut butter, red skinned peanuts.
Finish: Dry sherry, wood tannin’s, stout, cherries, raspberry conserve, nutmeg, sweet tobacco and lots of orange citric tang.
Last Word: Makes an impact at only 11 years old and very enjoyable at that! To think these were only around a couple of hundred bucks when first release! Heavy sigh!
*Taste at Bar Te – Airigh Chichibu.

Rating: 90/100

Yamazaki Owner’s Cask 1998-2009 Sherry Butt #70070 61%abv

Yamazaki Owners Cask Sherry Butt 70070-2Nose: Raspberries, menthol, Cherries Flambe, caramelized orange slices, orange soaked oak, walnuts, toffee, brandy, touch of shoe polish, Hokkaido baked cheese cake.
Palate: Rum & Raisin, Cherry Ripes, Turkish Delight melted over an open flame, Orange Flambe, ginger candies, some tea tannin, old leather.
Finish: Menthol, oak, apple cake, Arnotts BBQ Shapes, raisin toast, then some solid oak tannin’s.
Last Word: Finish a little unbalanced on the dry/tannic side compared to some Single Sherry Cask Yama’s I’ve tasted but still more than satisfying. Nose was the highlight.
*Tasted at Malt Bar SouthPark Tokyo

Rating: 89/100

Akkeshi Foundations 3 New Born Mizunara Cask 2019 8-23Mths 55%abv

P1050428Nose: Ah the scent of youth. Vegetal, yeast, smokeless mezcal, poached pears, oak, a musty note, lemon detergent. Tasted blind, everyone in my Japanese Whisky Club picked this as a very young whisky(new pot).
Palate: Follows the nose faithfully and but also some prickly spices and honey.
Finish: Yeast, honey, lemons, smokeless mezcal and some drying oak.
Last Word: Tastes young and lacks complexity. Mizunara oak has been elevated to a somewhat mythical status that is in reality out of proportion to it’s influence on the spirit. I would caution that expectations should be tempered. Any special qualities that this wood may impart are usually quite subtle. 8-10 years fully matured in Mizunara oak and bottled at cask strength may well be a different story as proven by a Mizunara Single Cask I tasted at the Chichibu Distillery.

Rating: 78/100

The Japanese Whisky Review – 500 Japanese Whiskies Tasted!

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So what does it take for the average self funded Japanese Whisky Aficionado to reach 500 Japanese Whiskies tasted? 10 years, being in the right place at the right time, spending time on the ground in Japan making contacts, unwavering enthusiasm and a whole lot of hard earned cash!
How hard was it? That is a story of 2 parts. The “Glory” days between May 2009 (the first time I visited Japan) and roughly 2014 and the leaner times after that of rocketing prices and limited availability.
Getting to 100 was relatively easy. 200 wasn’t that hard either. From memory even 300 wasn’t too bad. Beyond that it felt like hitting a brick wall and if your’e like me and just an average middle class Joe, you already know the reasons why. I won’t rehash here recent Japanese Whisky history and why prices are so high and stock levels/variety so limited, there are enough stories on the net using a simple Google search.
The majority of Japanese Whiskies I’ve tasted have been drinkable at the very least all the way up to stellar. There have been some total duds of coarse which is to be expected.
Favorite distillery style is from Yoichi and I admire Yamazaki and Chichibu for innovation and at least when you can get them, variety. Most often imbibed daily dram is Nikka From the Barrel.
Most underrated distillery in Miyagikyo and most overrated is Karuizawa. I’ve tasted about the same amount of bottling’s from Mars Whisky as I have Karuizawa and overall I’d choose Mars any day. I’ll throw in a number of Hanyu Card series as overrated at least for the price they command these days.
For those wondering if there will ever be a return to the “Glory” days of cheap prices, easy access and lots of variety I’m going to have to be the bearer of bad tiding’s. As long as supply exceeds demand no way! Not only that, even when the big players Suntory and Nikka bring a variety of age statement whiskies back on line they have repeatedly said they see their products as premium. This means they will continue to charge commensurate premium prices compared to say, Scottish whiskies of the same age and availability. I do look forward however to the 3 year old bottling’s that will be released in 2020 from the newer distilleries such as Akkeshi, Shizuoka, Kanosuke and Mars Tsunuki. 2020 will also be banner year for Chichibu who will release their first official 10 year old whisky.
Finally I’ll list 25 Japanese Whiskies that aren’t daily drams that I would always love to have a stash of. These are whiskies that left an immediate impression and haven’t failed since.
Hibiki 21
The Hakushu SM Aged 15 Years 500ml 56%
The Hakushu Single Malt Sherry Cask #9O 50021 1989 TWE 62%
Suntory Owners Cask Hakushu 2000-2011 #EL 41914 Smoky & Bitter 57%
Suntory Owners Cask Bar Hermit Private Stock Yamazaki 1996 Sherry Butt 13YO #AX70004 60%
The Cask of Yamazaki 1993 Heavily Peated #3Q70047 62%
Suntory Blended Whisky For The Peninsula Tokyo 2014 43% Sherry Casks of Yamazaki, Hakushu, Chita
Miyagikyo Single Cask 1996 16YO Sherry Cask 60% #118913
Taketsuru Pure Malt 35YO
Yoichi Single Cask 1994 18YO #400749 Warehouse 25 62%
Yoichi Single Cask 1988-2013 23YO Warehouse 25 #100212 62%
Yoichi Peaty and Salty 1989 12YO Single Cask #251224 63.3%abv
Yoichi 20
Karuizawa 1992 #6978 62.8%
Mars Moltage 3 and 25 28YO 46%
Mars Malt Gallery 1985 23YO #324 American White Oak 58%
Mars Komagatake Single Cask Vintage 1989 23YO 63.5% Cognac Limousin Cask #1060
Mars Komagatake 27 years old Sherry Casks / American White Oak Cask 46%
Kawasaki Single Grain Sherry Butt 1982 28YO # 7414 65.5%
Chichibu Mizunara Puncheon Cask # 89 2008-2017 58.2%
Ichiro’s Malt 8 of Clubs 1988 23YO #7100 57.5
Ichiro’s Malt The Game 2000 9YO 61.2%
Ichiro’s Malt SC for Takashimaya 1991 18YO 46.5%
The Single Malt Chichibu Golden Horse 12-year-old, Bottle # 0263 2008 56%
Ichiro’s Malt and Grain Kiyosato Field Ballet 26th Anniversary Bottling 48%abv

White Oak Akashi 10YO Old Sherry Butt Cask #105206 60%abv

P1050403Nose: Maraschino cherries, incense, plums grilled on a Korean BBQ, brandy covered Christmas pudding. Oriental tea, coal fired copper, orangey bourbon, cream cherry, flinty.
Palate: Dark plums and cherries, grilled orange slices, coal fired copper, brandy, vanilla, blackcurrant jam, the flint, herbaceous oriental tea. Water adds more fruits but but of the candied type.
Finish: Leather, tobacco, coal fired copper, burnt orange, flint, sherry, brandy, mint cherry.
Last Word: 10 years in this particular cask seems about spot on. The overriding impression is something peculiarly oriental in nature.

Rating: 87/100

Mars Le Papillon 2018 4YO Amercian White Oak Cask # 1870 60%abv

P1050408Nose: Stone fruits such as apricots and nectarines, malt, vanilla, treacle, new wood. Active wood spices and a hit of pepper. Mars peats at 3 different level and this one seems to be the lightest of those at maybe 4ppm.
Palate: Honey, treacle, dried pears, oranges, vanilla soaked oak, white peaches, white flowers. Decent amount of oak which adds a drying element. The touch of peat. Water adds a some extra sweetness, with baking spices and lemon sherbet tang.
Finish: Treacle, honey, tea, vanilla. Water adds salt.
Last Word: Another impressive young Mars that gets better with time. Hopefully Mars are not just bottling every cask at around 3-4 years old and are holding some back to be released at 10 years plus.

Rating: 87/100

Wakatsuru Saburomaru Harry Cranes Original Blended Whisky 43%abv

P1050405Nose: It’s a peated whisky or at least there is a decent portion of peated malt in the blend. Iodine, earthy peat, mushrooms, stove pipes. Candied pears, green apples, orange peels, chocolate, lychees. After a few months a sherry note.
Palate: Would you like some chocolate with that peat? 70% cocoa dark chocolate, lychees, peanut brittle, sour mango, candied oranges, iodine, brine.
Finish: Brine, chocolate, cocoa powder, macadamia’s, custard, earthy peat, candied oranges then mint chocolate.
Last Word: Easy going peated whisky. Research indicates the peated malt portion of the blend is homegrown Saburomaru whisky and the grain element sourced from outside of Japan. Pretty decent actually!

Rating: 84/100
*Note: So what’s the connection between this bottling and Harry Crane from Mad Men? Nothing obvious as far as I can tell. The connection between the distillery and the name is the following Japanese Company, Harry Cranes. Even then I’m not sure what rice crackers have to do with whisky though it is a marketing avenue to spread your name.

White Oak Akashi 5YO 1st Fill Bourbon Barrel 50%abv

P1050400Nose: Kicks off with loads of vanilla, toffee and honey. Poached pears, maple syrup, fresh cut timber. Certainly not a shy nose and a lot of what I would expect from a youngish whisky matured in 1st fill bourbon barrels.
Palate: Big vanilla, poached pears, virgin olive oil, sawdust. Almond flakes, honey, apple sauce, salt and some peppery heat. Like the nose, pretty straight forward. Basically says, this is all I am, like it or lump it.
Finish: Good length on vanilla, honey, pears, apple sauce and sawdust.
Last Word: Quality of the distillation is not in question but as per my notes, not a complex whisky.

Rating: 81/100

White Oak Akashi 3YO Sake Cask 50%abv

P1050411Nose: Plums, orange peels, a floral note, floor polish, sawdust, manuka honey. Something strange like grilled lamb fat, damp forest floor, sump oil, Arnotts Iced Vovo Biscuits, dried mushrooms.
Palate: Pickled plums, rosehip tea, orange peels, Arnotts BBQ Shapes Biscuits, Arnotts Monte Carlo Biscuits, raisins. Water adds some nutty flavors.
Finish: Saw dust, rhubarb, plum skins, red grapes, peppermint tea, some drying tea tannins and the grilled lamb fat. Water makes this drier and more tannic.
Last Word: Tastes like a whisky and I honestly cannot says what influence 3 years in Sake Casks has. Maybe that the grilled lamb fat and peppermint tea? After a couple of weeks open, this started to develop some smoke and what seems like earthy peat on the palate and finish. I’m also enjoying this more as time goes by.

Rating: 84/100

Kirin Single Malt Blenders Choice 2015 NAS 46%abv

Kirin Single Malt Blenders Choice 2015-2Nose: Lots of honey, toffee and vanilla notes. Sugared apple pie crust, some wood spice, rye spice, oranges, buttered popcorn, white pepper, cinnamon, overripe pineapple. I’d say fairly faithful to the Kirin House style.
Palate: Lots of spices, cinnamon, nutmeg, white pepper, chili flakes. Bubblegum, lemon detergent, orange cake, young white peaches, acetone.
Finish: Oranges, orange biscuits, lemon curd, banana, fresh thickened cream, acetone and or petrol fumes.
Last Word: On the palate and finish there is a persistent acetone/petrol fume note/flavor that spoils the overall experience. Apart for the nose, a bit of a disappointment really.
Rating: 79/100

Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt 12YO 40%abv

P1050399Nose: Honey, brine, chocolate, preserved pears, hint of earthy peat, seaweed, greed apples, marshmallows, coal.
Palate: Chocolate, brine, red grapes, read apples, brine, blueberries, a little oily but overall the body is thin and brittle.
Finish: Some brine, earthy peat, ash blueberries, pie crust. The oiliness is more evident on the finish:
Last Word: Can’t really hang with a good batch of the 17 or 21 year olds. Not sure if it is just the low abv but too thin and brittle for my tastes.

Rating: 80/100

Suntory Blended Whisky for BIC Camera 2014 43%abv

Suntory Special Blended Whisky For BIC Camera-2Nose: Oaky, earthy and fruity. Reminds me somewhat of Hanyu earthiness, the earth in orchards of stone fruits. Very expressive for a 43%abv whisky. Licorice allsorts, vanilla and demerara rum, white peaches and a mix of cantaloupe and honeydew melons. Slightly burnt brown sugar, dried papaya and apricots. Some leather and sweet tobacco. Take some time and little by little, more and more is revealed. Some gingerbread spices, raisins, overripe bananas, pineapple and oranges. I’d call it a plush nose!
Palate: Cognac like fruitiness, oily/buttery mouth feel. Bourbonesque orange, vanilla custard, brandy snaps, dried mango slices, lemon, grapefruit, sherry, the gingerbread spices. Demerara rum, strawberries soaked in champagne, eucalyptus. The gingerbread spices make this pop on the palate more than you would expect at ‘only’ 43%abv.
Finish: Turkish bread dipped in olive oil, orange soaked brandy snaps. Becomes drier on leather, tobacco and mature oak then drifts towards hints of coal fire, earthy peat, dried mango and grapefruit bitterness.
Last Word: A very classy dram showcasing the Blenders art!

Rating: 91/100 trending towards 92
*Note: Core components for this whisky are Mizunara Casks of at least 25 years old, Spanish Oak Sherry Casks, long aged Suntory Chita Grain Whisky.

Chichibu The Peated 2018 10th Anniversary 55.5%abv

P1050419Nose: Vanilla, quite floral, clay pots, earthy peat, hessian, hay bales, toffee, lemon juice, brine, hint of antiseptic band-aid.
Palate: Bonfire smoke, ash, Australian bush after a wild fire. Butter, eucalyptus oil, burnt vanilla, quite herbaceous. Brine, some peppery spice. Popping candy, not so much the candy but the popping sensation when your tongue smacks your palate. Water brings out more vanilla, the lemon, almond flakes, cafe late and mint dark chocolate.
Finish: Ash, black coffee, Lindt dark chocolate 90% cocoa, bonfire smoke, dried cigar leaf, vanilla. Water makes the coffee more late and adds in the hessian and hale bales from the nose.
Last Word: Would have said this before, but I’ve never had Heavily Peated Chichibu let me down yet going all the way back to the New Born. This is no exception!

Rating: 88/100 and quite outstanding for the young age!

Nikka to Discontinue Nikka Premium Blend 12YO, Coffey Malt/Grain, Suntory to Discontinue Kakubin White Label

A long time contributor to the blog has advised of a story coming out of Japan about further discontinuations of popular Japanese Whiskies from both Nikka and Suntory.
I haven’t heard anything about a confirmed date. On the Nikka side this would be especially strange in regards to the Coffey Malt/Grain bottling’s. From what I have read the Coffey Grain was released in the US in 2013 and the Coffey Malt as recently as 2016. In many circles these are well regarded expressions from Nikka and some of the most readily available from that Whisky House. The US is a huge market and dropping those would surely have to hit the bottom line as well as market confidence!
The Nikka Premium Blend 12 YO is maybe not as well known, but it has reasonable availability outside of Japan and I personally prefer it to the old Taketsuru 12YO. In Japan, that bottling is around US$50 and along with the classy packaging, a reasonably priced and highly drinkable souvenir if you happened to buy one there.

The Kakubin White Label is less problematic unless you live in Japan. There are currently 3 colored labels of Kakubin in Japan(Yellow, White, Black) and if I remember rightly, also sold in at least one other Asian country I know, Taiwan. So unless you have access to the White Label and you prefer it to the other labels, then it won’t effect you. The Yellow Label is the most famous and this is the one that can be also be found in Highball cans in vending machines and mini marts all across Japan. The Yellow Label is also sold in many of the larger markets internationally. I can say that in Australia our biggest discount liquor retailer has been out of stock of Yellow Label for months, could be up to 6. That is of greater concern to me as it really is a classic for making Highballs.
There was still ‘Kaku’ Yellow Label easily available in either bottles or cans when I was in Tokyo last November. Could well be it is being distributed ad hoc to carefully targeted markets while making sure there is continued distribution in Japan? Apparently the 450ml Yellow Label is being suspended in Japan. Not sure what the reasoning is behind that particular move by Suntory.
The fun and games and bad news continue!

Kanosuke New Born 2018 8mths Old Aged In White Oak Casks 58%abv

P1050415Nose: Fruity and Malty. Apricots, nectarines, rhubarb, white grapes. The expected vanilla and toffee. Dusty virgin White Oak barrels. An amazing lack of strong acetone notes for one so young. A flower like perfume note, some nutmeg spice and white pepper. If you think your nasal passages are going to be blown apart by a cask strength new make whisky guess again, not with this one!
Palate: It’s initially very punchy with a strong attack of wood spices. Some licorice/licorice oil, pepper, chili flakes. Tends to mellow out over time with Fuji pears, lychees, salted cashews and sugared pie crust. Sit with this for an hour and the palate gets better and better with each sip.
Finish: Initially peppery, then moves to sweeter notes of vanilla and almonds, followed by agave and yeast.
Last Word: I don’t usually mention color but this 8 months old new make has a fabulous golden hew that any 12 year old whisky matured in White Oak casks would be proud of! And yes, this is non chill filtered, non colored.
My impression at 8 months is that this could be a killer whisky at even 3-4 years! The most impressive Japanese New Make ‘Whisky’ I’ve tasted since Chichibu’s New Born Heavily Peated 2009.
Exiting Stuff!
Kanosuke Distillery Website
Rating: 85/100