You’ll see in this post a picture of the latest collaboration between Ichiro Akuto of Venture Whiskies(Hanyu/Chichibu) and Shinanoya a liquor/fine food chain based in Japan. It is a 1986 26YO Hanyu finished in Madeira wood, bottled at cask strength with an outrun or 260 bottle’s. It’s official release was the 25th of April this year and I’m not sure it even made it to retail shelves before it sold. Places like this often advertise the product with the release date and those in the know and the coin to pay for this sort of gear, have already pre ordered. So why is this a relative knew phenomenon with Japanese whisky in Japan, not the ability to pre order, the fact that they are now doing it. In other words, the Japanese now have a growing appreciation of their home grown high end whisky.
When I first came to Japan 4 years ago, the first retail liquor store I visited was Shinanoya Shinjuku branch. They had 2 Owners Cask bottling’s from Suntory and Ichiro’s Malt The Game 1st Edition. I bought one of the Owners Cask Hakushu. I came back 6 months later and the other 2 bottling’s were still in stock, so I grabbed them. Nowadays something like Ichiro’s Malt the Game would pre sell before hitting the shelf. Not only that, it cost Y7900.
So, I get emails asking me to suggest places to buy Japanese whisky from people overseas travelling to Japan. When they turn up, mostly they can only find the standards, not the single cask stuff they read about on TJW Review.
So the local Japanese whisky appreciation scene has grown markedly in just 4 years, this often leaves ‘only’ the standard stuff for whisky fans from other countries when they come a knockin’ for the good stuff when they get here. As I wrote in the heading, herein lies the problem, at least with buying much of the good stuff from Japan when you don’t live here.
Dramtastics Japan(whisky) Road Trip April 2013 – Day 9-10 Karuizawa 1966 21YO 43%Abv
Spending a couple of days in the World Heritage town of Nikko. Mainly site seeing but thought this would also give me the opportunity to post on a rare, Karuizawa 1966-1987 21YO OB that I have been fortunate enough to secure on this trip.
So what do I know about this whisky. Mostly only the obvious. The years distilled and bottled, age, alcohol percentage and that there was 521 of these in total. That it is thought to have had only one previous owner, the person I acquired it from. That owner was in correspondence with Ocean in regards to this bottling back in the day and had lost most of the information on it, but his best recollection was that the wood shavings in the wooden box the bottle comes in is from the cask it was matured in. Myth or reality it is a romantic notion either way. So what will I be doing with bottle. As it is of far too much historic value, really a museum piece, I hope to find a suitable venue to display this bottle in as it may be the only one left in existence.
Dramtastics Japan(whisky) Road Trip April 2013 – Day 8
Arrived back in Tokyo from Osaka. Bit tired but there is a number of whisky bars near our digs in Shinjuku so only a short walk for a quality dram. As previously reported I had been to Bar Hermit West earlier this trip. I decided to try Bar Hermit Regalo this time. I knew there was also a Bar Hermit East, but one of the bartenders informed me there is a chain of 6 bars with 4 under the Bar Hermit Banner, all owned by the same person and all located in Shinjuku.
I know that I found the West Bar good value, but to my surprise this was even better for some very rare old Ichiro’s Card Series, Ichiro’s Malt Single casks and the Ichiro’s Malt 20YO. Photo of the list of specials included with the special price in red. As you can see, not much more than the Yamazaki 10 listed on the top right corner. Price list is not inclusive of all their Card Series bottling’s they have more. Also their own range of Suntory Owners Cask bottling’s but a slightly larger range than the West bar. Owners Cask offerings are Y1300 a shot and that price has not changed in 4 years.
Tasted:
Ichiro’s Malt 5 of Hearts 2000-2008 French Oak Cognac Cask Finish 60%
Ichiro’s Malt Single Cask 2000-2005 American Oak Puncheon #6076 60%
Suntory Owners Cask for Bar Hermit Hakushu Heavily Peated 2000-2010 #EL 41499 62%
Dramtastics Japan(whisky) Road Trip April 2013 – Day 7
Took a trip out to the Yamazaki Distillery. I went there 4 years ago but there was no access to visitors due to the bird flu out break at the time. There is not a lot to the tour actually. Small visitors center with museum, gift shop and tasting bar. The site of 7000 thousand bottles of whisky in the ‘library’ was something to behold though.
Tour runs for an hour but half of that is the tasting at the end. I didn’t bother with the tour tasting as it was for Yamazaki 10 and 12. As for the first part of the tour, mostly what you would expect, how whisky is made and stored. Whisky nerds may find it a little underwhelming in technical detail but I think it was good enough for the majority of the people on my tour.
I should add that the town of Yamazaki itself is a pretty little place and with the lovely grounds around the distillery there was many a good photo opportunity separate to the whisky side of things. Also a tip for first timers to Osaka. If you take the JR Kyoto Rail Line from Osaka station, go to platform 7 and it is an easy an easy 25 minute ride to Yamazaki. There is a small map of how to get to the distillery after you exit the train.
As mentioned, I didn’t attend the official tour tasting but headed straight to the tasting bar in the visitors centre.
Tasted:
Yamazaki 12YO Genshu Key Component Malt Mizunara Cask 50%
Hibiki 17YO Genshu Key Component Malt Mizunara Cask 52%
Hibiki 17YO Genshu Key Component Malt Peated Cask 55%
Yamazaki Single Cask Sherry Butt #6B 0168 20YO 51%
*Genshu basically means distillery only and Key Component that cask type that is used in the blend.
Dramtastics Japan(whisky) Road Trip April 2013 – Day 6
After far to many Highballs my Japanese whisky in Kansai guide Clint from Whiskies R Us, took me along to Bar Sharom Osaka. This is one of those religious experience bars. A virtual shrine to all things Nikka, my jaw dropped when I walked through the door. It wasn’t the number of bottles, though there were lots of them, it was the sheer quality and rarity of some of the stock. We only had 2 drams but it was the sort of stuff that belongs in the Pantheon of the gods of whisky. Not sure if it’s his usual practice but props to the owner for the volume of his pours which were around 45-50mls. Maybe he just felt sorry for us on spending so much on four drams. : )
Just a note that this was not one of those official Nikka bars but privately owned by a Nikka enthusiast. For directions to the bar please contact Clint from Whiskies R Us.
Tasted:
Yoichi Genshu Malt Sherry Cask #203634 25YO 54%
Yoichi Single Cask 1990-2001 10YO #223639 Warehouse No.2 62%
Dramtastics Japan(whisky) Road Trip April 2013 – Day 5
After a lay day on day four, we headed to Osaka on day 5. Despite a long day of travel I found the energy to meet with Clint from Whiskies R Us in Umeda for a few whiskies. Ended up at Bar Augusta. Not a huge range of Japanese whiskies, but a range none the less. By my reckoning about 25-30 different bottling’s. Plenty of Scottish whisky though. Staff were nice and we were well looked after by the Owner, who is very knowledgeable about whisky in general including the Japanese stuff. He had actually been to the Yamazaki distillery sometime in the last few days, I can’t remember exactly, and gave me some tips on a couple of drams he said I should try when we visit Yamazaki today.
Anyway, at Bar Augusta I tried a couple of newbies to me and a rare one I had tried on a previous occasion in Tokyo, the Golden Horse 14YO. The Golden Horse(Hanyu) being the pick for me, even better than I remember.
Golden Horse Single Malt 14YO 57%
Yoichi Vintage 1989 55%
SMWS Yoichi Virgin Oak Cask 116.17 Pinball Wizard in a Japanese Teahouse 59.2%
Yamazaki Heavily Peated 2013 No Age Statement 48%abv
Nose: Lightly peated nose despite the name. Butterscotch, pink grapefruit, honey, incense, oak, autumn leaves and earthy tones.
Palate: Heavy ash, earthy peat,, burnt almonds, black pepper, lemon meringue, honey, salted chocolate.
Finish: Ashy with hot spices, honey, macadamias and earthy peat.
Last word A solid but not spectacular effort, though as I loved the ’93 single cask I had probably set my expectations a bit too high.
Rating: 87/100
Dramtastics Japan(whisky) Road Trip April 2013 – Day 3 Part 2
So later that evening, moved onto the Golden Gai(Guy) area for a few easy going Suntory Highballs at Bar Albatross with some family members.
Lots of fun. Decided to have a few more ‘serious’ whiskies at Zoetrope and then
Bar Hermit West. First 2 single malt photos from Zoetrope and the next 2 from Bar Hermit West. All were good but the Ichiro’s Malt Queen of Clubs was a beast and I loved it. Click thumbnails to view.
Dramtastics Japan(whisky) Road Trip April 2013 – Day 3 Part 1
This was the opening day of TIBS/Whisky Live Tokyo 2013.
As this was my first time here, I was quite excited to check it all out. What I discovered was a well organized event with plenty to offer the non whisky drinker and whisky enthusiast alike. The combining of The International Bar show and Whisky Live works a treat. I don’t speak Japanese so the mini seminars are lost on me, but as the majority of punters were Japanese plenty of informative talks and demonstrations for those folk. If you click on the above link the stage programs are written in English so you will see what I mean.
Of course my focus was on Japanese whisky and there was more than enough to satisfy. I pre purchased my day ticket online which was Y5000. Basically this is an entry fee, though I did receive a glencairn glass on admission which was great as I didn’t really want to taste whisky from those little plastic cups. There was plenty to taste for free but also a premium tasting ticket system for those who wanted to taste the high end gear. These could be bought for either Y1000 or Y5000. I chose the Y5000 package which gave me 25 tickets from memory. I mean memory as I tasted 18 different whiskies on the day. Props to the Venture whisky(Hanyu/Chichibu) stand as almost everything was free except 2 bottling’s. As the freebies included all the latest from the Card series and some experimental bottles of Chichibu I felt this was very generous.
Plenty of water stands to keep you hydrated and clean your glass between drams but strangely no food stands. As most people at the show including myself were getting a pretty sauced on whisky or cocktails this would been a nice addition.
Some shout outs:
The nice guy who gave me a run down on the progress on this event in Tokyo over the years.
Jeff(Geoff) from Metropolis Magazine and Kyle from Japan Tourist.
The Hong Kong Posse.
The lovely Japanese couple who gave me the whisky bar recommendation in Shibuya.
All the friendly staff serving at the Suntory, Nikka and Venture whisky stands.
And a special mention to the team from Hombo Shuzo(Mars) whisky stand.
Tasted on the day with my absolute standouts highlighted in gold. Only the Nikka Black was disappointing.
The TIBS/WL Bottling of Chichibu
The TIBS/WL Bottling of Hanyu
Yoichi Single Cask 1988-2013 23YO Warehouse 25 #100212 62%
Mars Komagatake 22YO 43%
Mars Awai Tradition Wine Case Finish 40%
Chichibu Refill Barrel #2186 60.2%
Chichibu Refill Hogshead 2010-2013 #705 63.2%
Chichibu Almost 5(years Old) refill/hogshead finished #2472 61.8%
Whisky Shop W. 2nd Anniversary Yamazaki 1999 13YO Puncheon 57%
Nikka Black Rich Blend 40%
Nikka Taketsuru 25YO
Yoichi Single Cask ‘Old Nic’s Dram’ #400860 1997-2013 15YO 59%
Hanyu 23 Year Old 58%
Ichiro’s Malt Ace of Clubs 2000-2012 1st Cask Hogshead 2nd Cask Mizunara(Japanese Oak) 59.4%
Ichiro’s Malt 7 of Spades 1990-2012 1st Cask Hogshead 2nd Cask Cognac 53.8%
Ichiro’s Malt 6 of Hearts 1991-2012 1st Cask Hogshead 2nd Cask American Oak Puncheon 57.9%
Hibiki 30
Yamazaki Heavily Peated NAS 2013 58%
Dramtastics Japan(whisky) Road Trip April 2013 – Day 2
A quick run around today to check out some retail/department stores in Shinjuku and see what Japanese whisky they currently stock. There was Takashimaya, Isetan and a small liquor store that a fellow whisky enthusiast had put me onto. In order of merit Isetan had the best stock in my opinion, followed by the small liquor store then Takashimaya. Takashimaya being noticeably down in quality offerings since my last visit in November 2011. Full reports with to follow. Photo is from Isetan.
The good thing about Isetan was the chance to try a number of their Japanese whisky offerings. I tasted the following:
Ichiro’s Malt Hanyu 2000-2012 Mizunara Heads for Isetan 59.2%
Yamazaki Single Sherry Cask for Isetan 1998-2011 #CU 70067 61%
Karuizawa Brilliant Sherry 2000-2012 61%
Karuizawa Brilliant Sherry 2000-2013 60.2%
I enjoyed the Hanyu the most.
A big shout out to my new friends and fellow whisky enthusiasts from Hong Kong. Great having a chat to you at Isetan and see you again sometime over the Whisky Live Tokyo 2013 weekend.
Dramtastics Japan(whisky) Road Trip April 2013 – Day 1
9 hour Flight from Brisbane Australia to Tokyo with part of the family in tow.
Straight down stairs from our digs at Hotel Southern Century Shinjuku for a cultural experience at the Mexican restaurant ; )
Back to one of our rooms for a Suntory Kakubin Mixer.
Dramtastic heads out on his own at 11.PM to Bar Hermit West in Shinjuku and enjoys the following. Full bar review and tasting notes to follow.
Suntory Owners Cask Bar Hermit Private Stock Yamazaki Hogshead 1999 11YO #DQ 60668 55%
Suntory Owners Cask 1986-2007 20YO Mizunara Cask #6B0018 49%
Suntory Single Cask Hakushu for WhiskyLive Tokyo 10th Anniversary 1997-2009 12YO Hogshead 56%
Suntory Owners Cask Bar Hermit Private Stock Yamazaki Sherry Cask #AX 70004 60%
Ichiro’s Malt The Game 3rd Edition 3rd Edition 2000 11YO Mizunara Hogshead Finish #917 59%
Ichiro’s Malt 8 of Clubs 1988-2011 Hogshead/American Oak Puncheon #7100 57.5%
Nose: Pepper, nutmeg. oregano, cloves, overripe peaches, brazil nuts, marmalade, mixed peel, medium peat. Water adds a wild flower note.
Palate: Cocoa, coconut, brazil nuts, pepper, stewed apples, salt and medium peating. Water helps define these flavors and ramps up the hot spices.
Finish: Good length on cocoa, coconut, hot spices, eucalyptus, peat and a mineral element.
Last Word: The balance between heat, sweet and peat is a winner.
Rating:92/100
Ichiro’s Malt and Grain 20YO 46%
Nose: Straight off the bat I pick up the Kawasaki influence, so sherry cask single grain. Cream of wheat, creamed corn, toffee, pipe tobacco, leather, fresh cut timber, hessian, mint and white pepper. Rich and succulent.
Palate: More of the Kawasaki sherry cask single grain. Chinese 5 spice, marzipan, nougat, pine, pipe tobacco, leather, rhubarb, roasted chestnuts and honey on crumpets.
Finish: Follows the palate with the pipe tobacco and leather prominent.
Last Word: This is a blend of Hanyu malt and Kawasaki single grain whiskies. There have been a number of these with 20YO age statements and different labels and I am not sure if they are the same bottling or not. Well crafted, high end blending.
Rating: 89/90
The Japanese Whisky Review Japan Road(rail) Trip 18th – 30th April 2013.
Dear fellow Japanese Whisky enthusiasts,
Dramtastic be heading back to Japan this coming Thursday, April the 18th. Hope you can join me on my adventures. I’ll be reporting from TIBS/WL Tokyo 2013 as well as bar hopping, where to buy Japanese Whisky follow ups, heading back to the Yamazaki distillery and of course karaoke(though for everyone else’s sake that part will remain private). Fingers crossed there will be a few surprises.
Kampai
Brian aka Dramtastic
Ichiro’s Malt – The Playing Card Whisky Series
Whisky enthusiast/writer Ulf Buxrud recently released his web published dedication to all things Ichiro Malt Card Series. Plenty of stuff that would have been taken from his book about Japanese whisky but as this web based info is free, a handy reference guide indeed. You can view Mr Buxruds site here and if there are any Card Series fanatics out there that spot any errors please contact me, I’ll be sure to pass it on.
Japanese Whisky- Auction Case Study 1 Karuizawa
All figures taken from Whiskyauction.com
Bottling’s from any given decade chosen at random, though other bottling’s were viewed and the below trends seemed to hold true.
Bottling Auction Date Price in Euro’s
Karuizawa 1967 Cask 6426 09/2011 865
“ “ 01/2012 850
“ “ 04/2012 1205
” ” 11/2012 1330
Karuizawa 1968 Cask 6955 02/2011 510
” ” 11/2011 456
” ” 04/2012 652
” ” 11/2012 621
Karuizawa 1973 Cask 6249 03/2011 290
‘’ ‘’ 08/2011 276
‘’ ‘’ 01/2012 370
‘’ ‘’ 09/2012 365
Karuizawa 1976 Noh # 6719 02/2011 400
” ” 07/2011 393
‘’ ‘’ 12/2011 405
‘’ ‘’ 07/2012 426
Karuizawa 1977 Noh # 7026 02/2011 555
‘’ ‘’ 07/2011 500
‘’ ‘’ 01/2012 555
‘’ ‘’ 12/2012 535
Karuizawa 1982 Cask 2746 03/2011 241
‘’ ‘’ 12/2011 222
‘’ ‘’ 04/2012 236
‘’ ‘’ 12/2012 290
Karuizawa 1985 Cask 7017 03/2011 238
” ” 06/2012 203
” ” 07/2012 225
Karuizawa 1992 Cask 3434 03/2011 135
” ” 08/2011 134
” ” 05/2012 200
” ” 10/2012 174
Karuizawa 1994 Noh # 270 04/2011 145
‘’ ‘’ 11/2011 160
‘’ ‘’ 06/2012 160
‘’ ‘’ 12/2012 260
Karuizawa 1995 Noh # 5039 06/2011 261
‘’ ‘’ 09/2011 355
‘’ ‘’ 05/2012 268
‘’ ‘’ 07/2012 180
My conclusions:
Ok, so it’s early days for the Japanese whisky collectors market, but so far. Most bottling’s receive the greatest jump in price after the batch has sold out at retail and then the first time sold at auction, often doubling in price in a matter of months. If purchased in Japan where the retail price is considerably lower, it can be triple. That in general, Noh or other fancy labeled bottling’s jump the highest from retail price to auction price whether the liquid in the bottle is superior or not. That once the initial jump in price is made from retail to auction, that the price often remains relatively static, with some small/medium percentage gains from time to time depending on the bottling. Bottling’s such as the 1967 are the exception to this rather than the rule. That there are some that have dropped in auction price such as the 1995 listed, though these are also exceptions. Still, for those with patience relative ‘bargains’ can still be had. It would also seem that as the initial retail price of bottling’s from the ‘70s are now so high, there are relatively little if any gains when these are sold at auction, at least initially. Karuizawa is by far the most heavily listed Japanese whisky distillery on this auction site. Your best bet is to pull the trigger as soon as you see a new retail release. Bottling’s from the ‘80s and ‘90s would now seem the best bet for short term price gains if your into whisky investing, and although speculating about the future of whisky prices is purely speculative, you’d be hard pressed to bet against prices of these ultimately rising once all the Karuizawa casks have been bottled.
Kirin and Me
Ah Kirin. A Pariah amongst Japanese companies in the eyes of many whisky enthusiasts. Yep, the company that owned and stopped production at Karuizawa. Kirin, the company that would not sell that distillery to certain interested parties. So what else do we know about Kirin? They make whisky, have been doing so for awhile, and you know what…..they make some pretty good stuff! Without going into a full history, there was a time up until 2002 where Kirin was in partnership with Seagram. This often meant that Kirin whiskies where blended with whiskies from other countries. Photo below.
Kirin’s purely Japanese production does have a unique house style amongst Japanese whisky produces. You will get the idea if you look at a few of the following reviews. Kirin 20th Anniversary Pure Malt, Kirin Crescent Blend, Kirin Evermore 2002. I once described this taste to an whisky acquaintance in the US and he wrote that it sounded somewhat like bourbon with a high rye content. As for myself, I wouldn’t mistake it for anything but whisky but I got the comparison. What I have found is that the higher the percentage of ‘outside whisky’ used in Kirin’s blends, the less the house style shines through so an easy way to tell. The Kirin Single Malt 18YO holds it’s own against the same age bottling’s from Yamazaki and Hakushu and the aforementioned 20th Anniversary Pure Malt is one of my favorite Japanese whiskies.
So in summary, these Kirin whiskies are well worth trying in my opinion.
Kirin Hips Blend 40%
Nose: Orange peel, passion fruit, wood stain, vanilla, coal.
Palate: Ginger bread, licorice, orange peel, green grapes, walnuts, passion fruit. There is an unfortunate bitter element amongst all that. Smacks of a lot of spirit caramel.
Finish: Short on the flavors on the palate but the spirit caramel overwhelms.
Last Word: Fake Tan!
Rating: 71/100
Kirin Once Upon A Time Pure Malt 43%abv
Nose: Grapefruit, pears, oak, varnish, lemon, mustard, hint of putty.
Palate: Again grapefruit, lemon, pear but the dried variety. White pepper, licorice and a bit waxy.
Finish: Grapefruit, dried pears and lots of peppery heat.
Last Word: Basic stuff. Tried this as a mixer and there was a surprising amount of peat.
Rating: 70/100
Kirin Sanroku 18YO 43%abv
Nose: Pineapple, walnuts, white pepper, cigar leaf, clay, dried apricots, mixed herbs. After about 20 minutes, there is a strong note of treacle.
Palate: Pineapple, walnut, brazil nut, some lemon, blueberry bubblegum, quite herbaceous.
Finish: It has a medium length with pineapple, spices, herbs, nuts, blueberry bubblegum and, finally, the cigar leaf makes a return.
Last Word: A well structured whisky of good complexity.
Rating: 88/100