Unfortunately I’ve had a bad head cold for over a week so the sinuses are shot. Still, the excitement of Mars(Hombo Shuzo) first official(over 3 years old) whisky release has gotten the better of me. I just had to post up my first impressions. Even though my nose is MIA I can still pick up some of the fundamentals on the palate.
First thing that comes to mind is a peated version of Chichibu the First with an extra dollop of honey and olive oil. There’s lemon curd/meringue, chocolate, Wurther’s Originals, almonds, wheat bread dough, star fruit, honeycomb, pink grapefruit, salt and pepper. Quite a hot whisky at first but not in an alcoholic/acetone way, more like chili heat. The peat lingers and the oiliness coat’s the palate. Overall, very accomplished for the age and every bit as good IMO as Chichibu’s the First(which I enjoyed a lot). The mild peating adds an extra dimension.
Here’s my tip, forget about mega dollar Karuizawa and Hanyu’s, Mars and Chichibu are on the ascendance so start collecting as many of their ‘standard’ offerings as possible. Sure, not cheap for their young age, but not 1000 bucks plus either!!
I had high hopes for this one after tasting all of Mars New Pot Peated Whiskies from 2-3 years back. I am not disappointed in the least. Pour one and like me you’ll be onto your third in no time!
Category Archives: Mars
Mars “Komogatake” Single Cask 1989 24YO American White Oak Cask #619 59%abv
Nose: Vanilla, banana, oak, orange, toffee, wood stain. Fish sauce, grapefruit, bbq hotplate and some minerals when a fair bit of water is added.
Palate: Massive grunt without water, the banana, oak and orange still show through with some big cayenne pepper heat. A little water smooth’s things a bit and brings out toffee, barbequed corn, sour dough, still plenty of spicy heat though(hot sauce). Even more water brings out vanilla custard, a metallic element though not unpleasant and even a little ash.
Finish: Depends on how much water of coarse but the following are present, grapefruit, toffee, banana, leather satchel, orange, nutmeg, mineral’s, oak, ash, bbq hotplate.
Last Word: A brute that needs taming with a fair splash of water. None the less, I have never had a Mars AWO cask matured whisky that has failed me yet.
Rating: 87/100
Mars Whisky – It must be getting close.
A comment left today by a regular reader of The Japanese Whisky Review got me thinking. Basically it was in regards to my recent tasting notes on a couple of releases from Mars Shinshu and how difficult they are to source in Europe. These reviews were of stock that has been maturing at the current distillery site, but was distilled before production was stopped and at one stage, thought to be never starting up again.
Now I reviewed some New Pot peated Mars whisky a while back so I thought I’d go check the distilled dates. Yep, March 2011. So, potentially we may see the first of the new production spirit from this great little distillery that can be officially called whisky as early as April this year being 3 years old. Now that is something to get seriously exited about!
Mars “Komagatake” Single Cask 1988 25YO Sherry Cask #569 59%abv
Nose: Dry sherry, cocoa, cherry ripes, dried fruits, madeira, mixed peel, apricot jam, charred oak barrels. Water adds white pepper.
Palate: Cocoa, apricots, nutmeg, dried fruits, orange lifesavers, madeira cake, ginger bread, oak. Water adds some, fresh ginger, cola and praline.
Finish: Madeira, candied nuts, dried fruits, nutmeg, ginger bread, pepper, charred barrels.
Last Word: Old school sherry cask whisky. Think of a cask strength Macallan from yesteryear. What, no Christmas cake you say. It would have been a cliché if I had noted that. At any rate, this is excellent.
Rating: 92/100
Mars “Komagatake” Single Cask 1988 25YO American White Oak # 555 46%
Nose: Papaya, mango, vanilla, apricot jam, oak, leather, banana, toffee. Delightful.
Palate: Plenty of punch for 46%. Vanilla slice, banana, oak, mango, apricot, rhubarb, leather, ginger bread, sweet tobacco, white pepper, cashews, salt.
Finish: Leather, tobacco, white pepper, rhubarb, ginger bread, cashews, banana.
Last Word: Mars is to American White Oak cask whisky as Yamazaki is to Sherry cask whisky. You just can’t go wrong.
Rating: 91/100
Mars “Komagatake” 24YO Bourbon Barrel 58%abv
Nose: Ginger bread, rye, mandarin, vanilla, dried fruits of mango, papaya and peaches. Tobacco, leather, oak. Luscious!
Palate: Big rye spices, ginger bread/ale, strawberries, big salt, cloves, dried stone fruits, licorice allsorts, pine, hint of smoke. Water adds cashews, fizzy sherbet and marzipan and makes the whole creamier.
Finish: Dried stone fruits, oak, fresh ginger, ginger ale, cloves, eucalyptus cough drops, a little tar and wisps of smoke.
Last Word: Only 120 bottles from 4 casks. The Angels got their share and luckily I got mine. A privilege to own but I’ve got to hide the rest of the bottle, a quarter down in a few days and I want more!!
Rating: 93/100
*Update 6/7/13 There is now a subtle exotic fruit note coming through on the palate reminiscent of Bowmore Bicentenary 1964. Hard to mistake as those ’64 Bowmore’s where quite unique.
Mars “Komagatake” 22YO 43%abv
Nose: An elegance reminiscent of the 3 plus 25. A subtle interplay between the American White Oak and sherry casks. Vanilla, crème brulee, strawberry, guava, oak, leather, dried fruits.
Palate: Vanilla, banana, dried fruits, leather, tobacco leaf, gentle spices, a little nutty, a little oily.
Finish: Lingers on dried fruits and tobacco leaf. The oiliness remains to the end.
Last Word: A deft blending of different cask types. Wish it was at least 46%abv though.
Rating: 88/100
Auction watch. What a a difference an award makes – Mars 3 Plus 25 Pure Malt 28YO 46%
So this whisky has won a couple of ‘whisky awards’ of late. As you will see from my notes, I was already a big fan back when it was first released. So what’s going on with this bottling outside of Japan a couple of years later. Now I follow whiskyauction fairly closely. I think this may be the first time I have seen this particular Mars bottling listed. Now I paid about Euro 115 in 2011. Bidding is currently at Euro 242. Auction finishes on the 8th of June. I’ll be tracking to see where this one ends up.
UPDATE 27/5/2013 – I’ll add that some retailers in Japan who did not stock this bottling when it was first released, now have it on the shelves with a ‘NEW’ tag. Price in Japan however, remains the same as in 2011.
Mars “Komagatake” Aged 22 Years 43%abv
Yesterday saw the release of a new bottling from the Mars Distillery. This one is a blend of American White Oak and Sherry Cask matured whisky and aged for a minimum of 22 years. According to the press release a total of 4 casks were used. I tasted this one at TIBS/Whiskylive Tokyo last month and initial impressions were favorable. Full tasting notes will follow at a later date as I have placed my order. Only 1359 bottles available at a price of Y9500. A fair price I believe, especially for a 750ml bottle. For international shipping orders Auc-claude whiskies still has a few in stock at the time of writing. If you are in Tokyo try Liquors Hasegawa.
I don’t think they are going to have a problem selling these but I still encourage all Japanese whisky enthusiasts to get behind small distilleries like Mars. Look out for another release from Mars on the 5th of June. I’ll post on this one when it hits the shelves but I can tell you it was a big hit at TIBS/Whiskylive Tokyo amongst the people I talked to and is amazing value for the quality.
Mars Maltage Aged 12 Years 43%abv
Nose: Light on pears, green apples, pencil shavings, fabric softener, burnt caramel and molding orange peel.
Palate: More of the pears, apples and fabric softener. Toffee, beeswax. Light body at first then a oily/soapy mouth feel.
Finish: Short and drying.
Last Word: Simple.
Rating: 70/100
Mars and Me
I bought my first bottle of Mars Whisky on my first trip to Japan. That trip, as you my have read on my about page, was the first time I had tasted Japanese whisky of any kind. I certainly had not heard of this brand, then again, I had not heard of Karuizawa, Hanyu, Akashi or many of the long since closed Japanese distilleries either. Can’t say I was particularly impressed by that first bottle of Mars Whisky either. Still, with such a cool name, at least to me, that was not going to stop me trying more of this intriguing little distilleries offerings.
Now I would never think that a company with such a relatively small whisky output would not bottle some average(or worse) stuff. What has really amazed me about Mars though, is that when they get it right, they produce whisky that is the equal of any other distillery in Japan. Check out my Full Tasted List and you’ll see what a relatively high percentage of Gold Medal ratings I have given to Mars whisky compared to how many I’ve tasted so far. The Achilles heel has been most of their sherry cask offerings that have had ‘dirty sherry'(sulphur) issues. They are not alone in this respect as so does Hanyu and Karuizawa. In contrast, after tasting all their new pot peated whisky, this stuff has future legend written all over it once it has fully matured.
The other great thing about Mars whisky for myself is that it is still a relative secret outside of Japan. So, as the rest of the world hangs on every new release of overpriced, mostly overrated Karuizawa, Mars whisky remains a unique and still rare pleasure for those who have access them. Selfishly, I hope it remains so for a little while longer at least.
Mars Private Single Cask #1143 American White Oak 12YO 43% For Espoa
Nose: Big on apricots, vanilla and banana. Also lemon meringue pie, walnuts and creamy oak. Not complex but quite luscious.
Palate: Nicely spicy, nutmeg/paprika, banana, toffee, vanilla honey, apricots, measured oak.
Finish: Short on apricots, bananas, a little spicy then dry and minerally.
Last word: Not the most complex whisky but nothing off either. Nose is the highlight.
Rating: 82/100
Mars Private Single Cask Sherry Butt 12YO #1124 43% For Espoa
Nose: Dark cherries, sherry of coarse, burnt orange jus, pomegranates, dried autumn leaves and lots of struck match.
Palate: Pretty much follows the palate though the struck match has diminished a little. There is a cross between a tangy and oily mouth feel. Also some earthiness, peanut butter and nutmeg.
Finish: Fairly short with not a lot going on.
Last Word: Had potential but the sulphury element spoils that.
Rating: 75/100
Mars New Pot Heavily Peated March 2012 9mths Old 60% 50PPM
Nose: Very similar to the Mars New Pot Lightly Peated 2011 and Mars New Pot Heavily Peated 2011. Agave, yeast, lime, fresh mowed grass, pumpkin seeds, linseed oil, soda water, shoe polish, ash. Youthful of course, but never harshly acetone.
Palate: Richer mouth feel than the 2011s. Agave, chocolate, ash, sump oil, pepper and a certain tanginess. Something sweet like black plums or black cherries. Again, never harsh. Water brings out a sweet nut element.
Finish: Long on ash, peat, agave, chocolate, peppermint.
Last Word: Shows great potential (as the 2011’s did).
Rating: 80/100
Mars Komagatake Single Cask Vintage 1989 23YO 57.9% American White Oak Cask #1041
Nose: Vanilla as expected. Oak, sawdust, pineapple, grapefruit, strawberries, menthol and quite a bit of pepper. Water strengthens the pineapple and grapefruit and adds mint.
Palate: Fairly aggressive attack. Hot spices, oak, toffee, strawberries, vanilla, some peat/smoke. Water enhances the sweeter elements.
Finish: Quite dry and oaky. Then a little pineapple, strawberries, peppermint, pepper, peat and coal/tar. Errs a little too far on the dry woody side. Water helps reduce this.
Rating: 85/100
Mars Komagatake Single Cask Vintage 1989 23YO 63.5% Cognac Limousin Cask #1060
Nose: Rich and deep. Old leather chairs, pipe tobacco, mixed herbs, tea, orange, soy/oyster sauce combo, beef stock cubes, pepper, marmelade, pineapple, apricots, chocolate, peat.
Palate: Rich and tangy. Palate smacking. Sweet spice and mixed herbs, old leather, pipe tobacco, marshmellows, marzipan, marmelade, strawberry jam, oak, bonfire smoke. Water brings out the tea, damp forests, pepper.
Finish: Medium length on the flavours from the palate plus some toffee then the trailing bonfire smoke.
Last Word: Love it!
Rating: 93/100
Mars Komagatake Single Cask Vintage 1985 27YO 60.7% Sherry Cask #162
Nose: Mixed peel, ginger, plums, honey, oak, pears and apples, lemon over shellfish, salt, port, pepper, savoury shapes biscuits, pipe tobacco, leather, maple syrup and a little soy sauce.
Palate: Nutmeg, cinnamon, marshmellows, oak, maple syrup, cigar leaf, toffee, burnt orange jus, rhubarb, port, burnt twigs, raisins, currents, vanilla.
Finish: A fruity/dry combo on the flavors of the palate and a little smoke/peat/burnt twigs. Complex.
Rating: 91/100
Mars Komagatake Moltage Sherry Cask 10YO 40%
Nose: Honey, sherry, blood oranges, lime, a little bit of oak, a kind of burnt toffee smell, and something maritime, like seaweed.
Palate: It is biscuity, with some bitter chocolate, nuts, malt, toffee and smoke.
Finish: Mainly toffee, nuts, smoke and some lingering bitterness.
Last Word: I have to admit that on first opening I didn’t take much of a liking to this whisky and probably would have given it a score of around 73/100.It’s been open for around 7 months now and, while never going to be a world beater, it has improved quite a bit and scores. The smoke saves it.
Rating: 79/100
Mars Whisky The Malt of Kagoshima 1984 25YO Sherry Cask #0578/3081 46%
Nose: Sherry and toffee at first, then changes to an almost Bourbon-esque grain like quality. Licorice, pears, red apples, cinnamon doughnuts, yeast, match heads. Dry cement mix.
Palate: It first touches the palate with a certain lightness then there is a big explosion of peppery spices. Again, match heads, but balanced and not overly sulphurous. On the second sip, the sherry comes through with tons of mixed peel zing. The third sip offers some lemon and mint. On my fourth sip, I noticed there was a nice saltiness sizzling on the tip of the tongue.
Finish: A little dry and fairly short, with burnt toffee, match heads, mint chocolate, cinammon and pipe tobacco. After a few sips, there is a nutty creaminess that floats around the palate and lengthens the finish.
Rating: 87/100
Mars Single Cask # 904 Aged 15 Years. 43%abv
Nose: Fairly light, with apricot, walnuts, fresh cut timber, sandalwood, caramels and lime.
Palate: Peanuts, walnuts, wood chips, wood spice, caramels, lime, cinnamon and coconut
Finish: Shortish with nuts mixed with Werther`s originals and lime.
Las Word: There are some nice flavours there but you have to dig hard to find them.
Rating: 79/100